The elder tree is native to Europe, North Africa and Western Asia and has been known since Egyptian times. There is hardly any other member of the plant kingdom which can rival the elder tree for superstition and diversity of uses for all its parts. The young shoots have a soft pith, which is easily pushed out to form a hollow tube, hence the name pipe tree or bore tree. These were used for making pipes and the old English herbalist Culpepper, referred to their appeal to small boys who would make them into pop-guns. The wood was made into musical instruments.

One theory which supports the plethora of superstition surrounding the elder tree is because it is the wood from which the crucifixion cross was made and the type of tree from which Judas hanged himself. Perhaps it was this belief that made the elder tree a symbol of death, sorrow and misfortune. Shakespeare refers to elder as a symbol of grief in Cymbeline. Elder shoots were buried with the dead to protect them from witches and also used in making hearse driver's whips. In medieval times, hedgecutters would avoid attacking its rampant growth, gypsies would not burn it on camp fires and in many parts of Europe it was associated with magic, especially black magic! Therefore it is somewhat puzzling that a tree with such a dark reputation should also have been used so much, for practical, medicinal and culinary purposes. A blue coloring substance from the berries has been utilized as a kind of litmus paper, as it turns green with alkalis and red when detecting acid.

Habitat and Description
Elder trees are not to be confused with the dwarf elder (Sambucus ebulus) which has fruit that is poisonous and violently purgative. The tree usually grows 4 to 5 meters tall (13' to 16") though it can reach 10 meters (33') under favorable conditions. Its stem and branches are covered in a greenish-ashen bark, having a white herbage in its interior. The leaves have cogged margins and the flowers are white with a pleasant smell. The fruits are small, black and shiny, with 3 longish seeds inside. The plant can be found in mountainous areas, and in river valleys where the sun rays don't shine directly. The flowers are harvested when more than two thirds of them have blossomed, the fruits are only harvested on autumn when they are black. The parts used from this plant are its flowers, fruit and bark. Because many cane-like shoots come up and spread out around the base, the appearance is often more hedge-like than treelike. Elder trees have dark green, spearmintshaped leaves 1h,_34 in. (4-8 cm) long with finely jagged edges. When bruised, the leaves of elder have a nondescript, faintly grassy aroma. Elder flowers form in large, creamy-white, flattopped clusters, over 3 in. (7 cm) in diameter, that look as though they have been painstakingly crafted in lace and designed to support the hoards of bees working busily over them. These fresh flowers have a somewhat bitter taste and sweet, less than appetizing aroma to some, however it is after processing into products such as elder flower cordial, that the more pleasant attributes of elder flowers become apparent. After flowering, the very darkpurple, almost black berries develop and when fully ripe are 1/3 in. (8 mm) in diameter. Fresh elder berries should not be eaten raw as they are somewhat bitter, and the overall taste effect is not appealing, however upon drying the flavor becomes more agreeable.

Although the flowering season is a relatively few short weeks in its native Europe, elder trees growing in the warmer parts of Australia may be in flower for a couple of months. The vanilla-scented panicles of creamy blossom are picked when fully open on a fine, dry, sunny day and left for a month, spread thinly in an airy room to become dry and crumbly. They are then rubbed and shaken to separate the flowers from the stalks which are discarded. In Europe the elder flowers are thrown into heaps where they are left to warm for a few hours. This loosens the petals, which are then separated from the stalks and stems by sifting. To dry your own elder flowers, pick them early in the morning before the heat of the day has diminished their potency. Place the flower heads on clean paper in a warm, dark, dry place for a few daysThe flowers are then used like tea leaves to make a delicate tisane which can be flavoured with lemon and honey, or added to lemon marmalade for extra piquancy.

The blue-black berries can be boiled with equal amounts of vinegar and sugar, strained, bottled and left to mature for several years into a rich relish which goes well with beef, pork or poultry. The minute flower petals are used for making infusions like elder flower cordials and herbal teas, in Europe the elder flowers are picked in full bloom and thrown into heaps where they are left to warm for a few hours. This loosens the petals, which are then separated from the stalks and stems by sifting. To dry your own elder flowers, pick them early in the morning before the heat of the day has diminished their potency. Place the flower heads on clean paper in a warm, dark, dry place for a few days.

Culinary Uses of Elder
The most popular parts of elder for culinary uses are the flowers and berries. Both are used for making wines and is used to color conventional wines (particularly port produced in Portugal). Elder flowers make a refreshing drink when soaked in lemon juice overnight, and the flower heads, dipped in a light batter and fried, make an unusual accompanying vegetable. The blossoms give a muscatel grape flavor to gooseberry, apple or quince jelly when tied in a muslin bag and boiled in the fruit syrup for three to four minutes at the end of cooking time.

Elizabethans made delicious pancakes from fresh-picked plate-like heads of blossom, dipped in batter, fried and sprinkled with Sweet Cicily (Myrrhis odorata) or even the rare treat of sugar.

Elder berries, which taste a little like blackcurrants, are made into conserves and jams, they go well with apples and can be dried and put into pies in the same way as currants.

Attributed Medicinal Properties
Traditionally, elderberry leaves are considered purgative, expectorant, diuretic, and diaphoretic. Boiled with linseed oil, elder leaves have been used as a treatment for hemorrhoids in England. And elder leaf ointment is another traditional English remedy for wounds and bruises, and good rubbed on the back to promote easier breathing from colds and flu. To make this elder ointment, heat 4 ounces of green elder leaves in 1 pint olive oil for about an hour (low heat). The strain and discard the herb. Mix the oil with 1 1/2 ounces of beeswax. Stir until it cools and thickens. Store in the refrigerator in a wide-mouth jar.

Elderberries have been a traditional remedy for constipation, colic, diarrhea, colds, and rheumatism. The berries contain viburnic acid, which promotes perspiration. Elderberry tea is an old effective remedy for coughs, sinus congestion, and reducing swelling of sore throat. Elderberry also promotes the removal of waste products from the body, and is considered a powerful immune stimulant. And elder flower water, used as a skin lotion for its mild astringent properties, is still sold in old-fashioned pharmacies to this day.

Other Names
black elder, bore tree, common elder, elderberry, pipe tree

FRENCH: baie de sureau
GERMAN: holunderbeere
ITALIAN: bacca di sambuco
SPANISH: baya de sauco

Recipes Using Elderflowers or Elderberries

Elderflower cheesecake

115g dried apricots
50g dried pineapple
75g nibbed Almonds
apricot liqueur, for soaking
1 23cm pastry tart cases, baked blind
3 egg whites
700g cottage cheese
70g Sugar
2 tbsp dried Elderflowers
1 tbsp rose water

Blackberry coulis
115g Blackberries
juice of 1 Lemons
55g caster sugar (superfine sugar)*

* Caster sugar is common in the UK. If caster suger is not available where you live use super fine sugar if you can find it, otherwise use granulated sugar

1. Place the dried apricots, dried pineapple and almonds in a small bowl. Add just enough apricot brandy to barely cover them. Cover and set aside to macerate for at least 4 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 190ºC/Gas 5. Whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form.

3. In a food processor blend together the cottage cheese, sugar, soaked dried fruit and almonds, elderflowers and rosewater until smooth.

4. Fold the whisked egg whites into the cottage cheese mixture. Pour the mixture into the pastry case. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour until the filling has set and the pastry is golden-brown. Cool before serving.

5. While the cheesecake is baking make the blackberry coulis. Blend together the blackberries, lemon juice and caster sugar in a food processor until smooth. Strain.

6. Serve the elderflower cheesecake with the blackberry coulis.

Roasted strawberries and elderflower pana cotta

For the pana cotta
1 litre double cream
135g caster sugar
3 vanilla pods, split and seeds removed
50g Elderflowers
4 sheets leaf gelatine, soaked in cold water until softened

For the roasted strawberries
25g Butter
150g small Strawberries
1 pinch strands Saffron
2 tbsp brown sugar
100ml elderflower cordial
sprigs Mint, to decorate

1. Place the cream and sugar in a saucepan, add the vanilla pods and seeds, and bring to the boil.

2. Remove from the pan from the heat, and add the fresh elderflowers Cover the pan and leave to infuse for 5-10 minutes, before straining.

3. Soak the gelatine leaves in water to cover and set aside for 5 minutes.

4. Squeeze any excess water from the gelatine leaves and add to the warm cream mixture, stirring until dissolved.

3. Pour the mixture into small dariole moulds or ramekins, and chill in the fridge for 3-4 hours, until set.

4. For the strawberries, preheat the oven to 180C/gas 4. Melt the butter in a non-stick frying pan and add the strawberries and saffron. After about 5 minutes, they should have darkened and taken on colour. At this stage, add the cordial.

5. Transfer the strawberries to a roasting tin and bake in the oven for 5-6 minutes, spooning over any syrup from the strawberries every minute or so. Leave to cool.

6. Turn the set panna cottas out of their moulds and accompany with the strawberries and syrup. Decorate with a sprig of mint before serving.

Elderflower Fritters

For the fritters
1 Egg, separated
50g Flour
100ml Milk
5 heads Elderflowers

For the yogurt and honey sauce
150ml organic Greek yogurt
2 tsp acacia Honey

1. Whisk the egg yolk, flour and milk together until smooth and set aside for 20 minutes.

2. Whisk the egg white to soft peaks and gently fold into the batter, keeping the mixture as light as possible.

3. Heat the oil in a deep fat fryer to 180C.

4. Using a pair of kitchen scissors, snip the elderflowers into individual florets, leaving on as much stem as possible.

5. Dip the florets into the batter and drop into the hot oil. Cook for 1-2 minutes, until golden brown. Remove and drain on kitchen paper.

6. Mix the yogurt and honey together in a bowl. Serve the hot fritters with the yogurt and honey sauce

Blackberry Sorbet With Elder Flower

Yield: 1 pint

1 pint blackberries
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 to 3 tablespoons elder flower concentrate (or to taste)

Puree the blackberries in a blender or a food processor or put them through a food mill. Press them through a strainer to remove the seeds.

Meanwhile, bring the sugar and water to boil in a small saucepan for five minutes. Cool.

Combine blackberry puree and sugar syrup and mix well. Stir in lemon juice and elder flower concentrate and freeze in an ice cream maker according to directions.

Elderflower Cordial

For every ten flower heads I use one litre of water, 250-500g of white sugar (depending how sweet you like it) and 3 sliced and squeezed lemons.

So as not to waste the pollen, I tend not to wash the flowers, I just give them a little shake and check them over for insects. I try to use freshly opened blossoms, and not the slightly brown fading ones.

Bring the water to the boil, dissolve the sugar in it and pour over the elderflowers.  Set aside for 24 hours, stirring occasionally. Strain the liquid in muslin (or a stocking/pair of tights) and bottle into clean glass or plastic bottles. Dilute as necessary. It will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge, or up to a year if frozen.

Elderberry Wine

Pour 2 gallons of boiling water over 3 gallons of clean ripe berries that have been stripped from their stalks. Leave covered in a warm place for 24 hours. Press the liquid through a sieve and add 3 lb of sugar, ½ oz of Ginger, ¼ oz of Cloves and ¼ of Cinnamon for each gallon on juice. Simmer for 20 minutes, discarding the scum and strain into a cask. Do not bung until the liquid has become still. Leave to mature for at least 6 months.

Socata (elder flowers wine version 2)

• mix 8-9l of water with the flowers, the lemon cut in 16 pieces, lemon juice, sugar and leaven, cover and wait ...
• for 3 - 6 days
• using a wooden spoon mix the ingredients twice a day, taste
• remove the lemon the next day in order to avoid a bitter taste
in function of how much time you let it rest more or less alcohol will get formed
• it can either become a refreshing, sparkling drink (after 2-3 days) or a refreshing, mild alcoholic drink (after 5-6 days)

Elderberry Cake:

5 Cups of Elderberries
2 Cups of Ground Almonds
3 Large Spoons of Sugar or Honey
Zest of 1/2 a Lemon
Cinnamon, Ginger, Vanilla,
3 Egg Whites

For the dough:
8oz Flour
5 oz Butter
3 Tablespoons Soured Cream
A Little Salt

Blend the flour and the cold butter till well mixed, add the sour cream and blend till smooth. Cool for about 1 hour. Cover the bottom of a high edged cake-tin. Warm the berries and the sugar or honey (without water) for about 10 min. Add the almonds, spices and the lemon rind. Beat the egg whites till stiff and gently fold under the berry mix and cover the dough. Bake for about 40 min. at medium temperature.

Elderflower Lemonade

Layer a large jug with fresh Elderflowers and several slices of lemon, fill to the rim. Add spring water to cover the flowers. Cover and leave to infuse for a day. Strain and add honey to taste.

Elderberry Conserve

3kg Elderberries
1.5 kg Sugar
(tart fruit, e.g. apples)

Simmer the berries with a minimal amount of water for about 15 min. Spices, such as Cinnamon, Vanilla, Cloves, or Ginger can be added to taste. Press through a fine mesh sieve to strain out the seeds. Reheat the liquid and add the sugar. Simmer until the sugar is dissolved and fill into sterilized jars.

This basic recipe is very adaptable. For a variation on the theme try mixing the Elderberries with other forest berries, such as bramble or alternatively add apple, red currents, plum or rhubarb. Since elderberries do not contain pectin the addition of apple or some other tart fruit is necessary to assist solidification.

If a cordial with a syrup consistency is required, reduce the amount of sugar to half, omit any pectin-containing ingredient and boil for about an hour until the liquid thickens to syrup consistency. The addition of fresh Ginger and Cloves makes this a very effective 'rob' for winter colds.

Elder, exclusive to the Epicentre. Copyright 2009. All rights reserved.